My story of acquaintance and selection of year-round care with acids at home

The skin of the face is an area of ​​the body that is always exposed to all the winds and scorching rays of the sun, frost and harmful elements contained in the air. It is like a sponge, which with its pores absorbs microparticles of dirt, dust, and substances invisible to the eye.

As a result, pores become clogged, skin cells stop breathing fully, and you are horrified to notice in the mirror inflammation on your face, dull skin color and general fading. To prevent this from happening, clean your skin regularly, which does not have to be done at the salon.

Today, home facial peeling is an affordable and highly effective procedure that will give your skin a new lease of life. Moreover, you can choose a variety of methods and recipes - the choice is quite wide.

How to do facial peeling at home?

Facial peeling at home can be done in different ways: each method will differ in the products you need to prepare and the results. There are two main methods of home peeling - mechanical and chemical.

  • Mechanical facial peeling

Home mechanical facial peeling includes cosmetics that contain abrasive (solid) particles. These can be crushed seeds, nut shells, grains and other natural ingredients. Once on the skin, they collect particles of impurities from the pores, cleansing them. To do mechanical facial peeling at home, you will need to do the following.

  1. Prepare a peeling product (recipes will be given below): it can be a scrub, gommage or peeling mask.
  2. Steam your face over a herbal steam bath . This is a prerequisite for effective peeling: no product, even the most powerful one, will penetrate closed pores. Herbs will provide an anti-inflammatory and disinfectant effect, but they need to be selected according to your skin type:

FOR DRY use chamomile, mint, yarrow, sage, parsley, lemon balm, linden blossom, rose petals, hops, primrose, dill, comfrey, dandelion; FOR FAT, prepare a steam bath with oak bark, serpentine rhizome, leaves of St. John's wort, string, flowers of chamomile, wormwood, sage, coltsfoot; FOR PROBLEM , pharmaceutical chamomile, calendula, aloe, St. John's wort, sage, horsetail, burdock root, mint, raspberry, plantain, celandine, birch buds are suitable.

  1. Apply the scrub (this is a fairly hard and deep peeling) or gommage (provides light, superficial peeling) to the skin and massage your face in a circular motion for about 5 minutes (no longer necessary to avoid skin damage). After this, it would be good to apply another nourishing mask, which you can also easily prepare yourself.
  2. Apply the mask on your face in a circular motion, massage the skin for a minute and leave for 10 minutes. Then massage again in a circular motion and you can rinse off.
  3. After mechanical peeling of the face, be sure to apply your usual nourishing cream to calm her down from such stress.
  4. Mechanical peeling at home is enough to do once a week.

This is a mild peeling method (compared to chemical peeling), but its effect can also be quite aggressive if the peeling agent contains large abrasive particles. If this is not enough for you, at your service is a chemical peel at home.

  • Chemical peeling of the face

Previously, this procedure was available only in beauty salons, but modern cosmetology allows women to do it at home. In pharmacies you can buy peeling masks based on fruit acids, which penetrate deep into the skin and cleanse pores of impurities very thoroughly and for a long time.

  1. Buy a glycolic peel at the pharmacy or prepare your own salicylic peel.
  2. Apply the mixture to the skin of your wrist and rinse (after about 15 minutes). If no reaction occurs within an hour (itching, burning, redness), you can safely apply the mixture directly to your facial skin.
  3. Do not keep chemical peeling masks on your face for a long time: 7-10 minutes will be enough.
  4. After cleansing, lubricate your face with a nourishing or protective cream.

If you are not sure how your skin will react to chemical peeling, which is quite aggressive in its action, then it is better to limit yourself to simple mechanical cleansing of the face.

Before immediately starting facial peeling procedures at home, you should familiarize yourself with the indications and contraindications for it.

My story of acquaintance and selection of year-round care with acids at home

For a couple of years now, products with acids have been constantly present in my daily care. But these are not nuclear weapons, which require rehabilitation and special control when used, but a soft, daily, but quite effective process. I don’t like it when my skin peels off in shreds, flakes and requires seclusion for several days. But regular gentle exposure to low percentages of acids suits me very much. For those who support just such a system, I will be happy to tell you about the products I have tested.

I have combination skin that tends to be oily in summer and dry in winter. My problem is enlarged pores not only in the T-zone, but also on the cheeks. At the same time, the skin is quite sensitive and at times prone to irritation. With certain health or hormonal problems, inflammation may occur. Now an age aspect has also been added (45+).

Let me start with the fact that I tried my first acid treatments in beauty salons using professional strong products about 15 years ago. Then my skin was even younger, but just as problematic in terms of increased oiliness in the T-zone, the presence of enlarged pores, dullness and a not very healthy complexion. The effect after a professional acid burn was not bad, but quite traumatic and not very durable.

Once I became acquainted with a softer product from the salon brand Decleor, intended for more gentle home care, and since then I have fallen in love with just such a delicate acidic system.

So, my first such remedy was

Renewing facial peeling gel DECLEOR Experience De L'age Resurfacing gel-peeling

I used this remedy in monthly courses twice a year - in December and at the end of February-beginning of March, when there was no active sun in our northern latitudes.

I already mentioned this product in my old post “How I prepare my face for the New Year”

I won’t repeat the description now, especially since this product apparently disappeared from the brand’s assortment after the sad purchase of the brand by the L’Oreal concern. However, I couldn’t help but mention it, since it was with these bottles that my new home acid program began.

Therefore, I will move on to the next product, mentioned in the same article about preparing facial skin for the New Year holidays, when you want to look especially radiant and beautiful.

Enzyme powder for washing with AHA and BHA acids Meishoku Detclear AHA & BHA Fruits Enzyme Powder Wash

This product has become a favorite in our family. Not only I enjoy using the powder, but also my husband, who really liked this method of washing in the fight against blackheads.

I became acquainted with the Meishoku Detclear series thanks to the peeling roller, which I wrote about here

, and which did not take root in my care. But I am grateful to this product from the beauty box for my subsequent acquaintance with the unusual Powder Wash format.

I use powder quite regularly, 1-2 times a week at least, as a second stage of cleansing. That is, I first wash my face with a suitable cleanser (depending on the nature of the impurities), and then carry out a gentle peeling procedure with enzyme powder to remove dead cells, balance sebum regulation, improve complexion, deeper cleanse pores and visually reduce them. The powder copes with all these tasks perfectly.

The action of the powder is based on the work of AHA and BHA acids, which is clear from the name. The release form is a powder, which upon contact with water turns into a delicate creamy foam.

My detailed review of this family favorite can be read in the post “From a clean slate: Meishoku Detclear AHA & BHA Fruits Enzyme Powder Wash”

In addition to all other positive aspects, it is convenient to pour this powder into a small container to take it with you on a trip or business trip.

The consumption is very economical, the bottle lasts a long time. I still haven’t finished the first bottle (I’ve been using it for two years now), although at the beginning of this year I bought a second one for the dacha, so the rate of consumption in the city has decreased somewhat.

Price

: about 1000 – 1250 rubles excluding discounts.

Testing period

: 2 years, 1-2 times a week minimum.

Grade

: 10 of 10.

The next product from the world of light acids that I became acquainted with was the famous Pixi tonic, which I previously ordered in the UK, and now it has appeared on sale in Russia.

Pixi Glow Tonic

The work of the toner is based on the effects of 5% glycolic acid. I know the condescending attitude of many fans of Ordinary nuclear compositions towards this product, but I usually focus only on my personal feelings, and they definitely pleased me. Twice courses with daily use of this product helped make my skin more perfect - they gradually evened out the tone, helped to narrow pores, and made my skin feel silky and smooth. While using this toner, the pores clogged less frequently, inflammation practically disappeared (although, fortunately, I don’t have any big problems with this), the skin felt renewed, fresh and well hydrated.

For a more detailed review of this famous product, read my post “Tonic with a positive charge: Pixi Glow Tonic”

Price

: about 1250 rubles excluding discounts for 100 ml and about 2150 rubles for 250 ml.

Testing period

: 2 courses for 1 month in the morning/evening.

Grade

: 10 of 10.

Why did I only use such a great toner twice? Because I found an excellent replacement that was more geographically accessible at that time and appeared on our market in a very timely manner.

Caudalie Vinoperfect Concentrated Brightening Essence

Having tried last year's new product Caudalie, I gave up further searches for places where Pixi tonic is sold. The same glycolic acid was found in the essence, and even in collaboration with grape water, neroli hydrolate and peony root extract, which I love so much. The purpose of this product is the same as the previous tonic - gently removing dead cells and adding radiance to the skin.

In addition to the usefulness of the composition, the Kodaly brand impresses me with its general philosophy and is more attractive aesthetically.

The essence is available in heavy cylindrical frosted glass bottles with a silver screw-on cap. Initially it was released in a volume of 150 ml, and then it was re-released in 100 ml bottles. This was good, since the product must be used within 6 months after opening, and a large amount may simply not be used up during this period.

As gifts at various promotions, the brand often gives a miniature format of this essence (50 ml), which allows you to take it with you on trips or to the countryside.

The rather wide neck is sealed with a plastic plug with a tiny hole, since the essence is just water, and you need to dose it carefully.

You can apply the composition with your fingertips or using a cotton pad. I use the last option.

The essence should be used morning and evening after cleansing and before applying serum or cream. It is not recommended to touch the area around the eyes.

In addition to the comfortable feeling of freshness and renewal on the skin, I love the light floral scent upon application.

With regular use of the product, the texture of the facial skin is evened out, the tone becomes lighter and more uniform, healthy colors appear, pores look cleaner, neater and visually narrower, the skin feels more hydrated, smooth and fresh, and the amount of inflammation decreases.

Price

: about 2100 rubles excluding discounts.

Testing period

: 1.5 years in courses daily morning/evening, at intervals as desired. I used 2 large bottles and one miniature.

Grade

: 10 of 10.

Continuing the theme of Caudalie, I cannot help but mention another product that is constantly in my care:

Caudalie Glycolic Peel

Many people immediately note the interesting design of Kodaly masks, which immediately attract attention with their wooden lids in an ecological style.

The glycolic mask is designed to refresh the tone and give the skin radiance.

At the same time, the mask acts quite carefully, thanks to a complex of ingredients in which, in addition to glycolic acid, you can see vegetable glycerin, grape seed oil, panthenol, squalane and bisabolol. Personally, I’m always pleased to see papain in the composition, which usually does a good job of dissolving sebaceous plugs and helps cleanse pores.

It is recommended to use a glycolic mask 1-2 times a week in a thin layer on dry skin, avoiding the area around the eyes. Then, after 10 minutes of exposure, rinse with water.

The creamy consistency of the mask does not dry out, does not tighten or irritate, and is very comfortable to feel.

I would like to note right away that the main task of the mask is skin radiance and soft peeling, and direct cleansing is not the function of this particular mask. The brand's assortment recommends using a special detox mask for this purpose during the multi-masking process.

However, the mask also does some cleansing work.

Photo before using the glycolic mask:

Applied mask:

Photo after applying the mask:

For a clearer comparison:

When working in combination with cleansing masks, the result of working with pores becomes better. However, the mask does a good job of gently exfoliating and evening out skin texture. With regular use, the tone becomes more even, lighter and healthier. I recommend the mask to those who need a soft, delicate peeling in a creamy consistency.

I can’t say that I’m completely delighted with this mask, since the effect is still very mild, but it’s quite suitable as a light peeling option in winter.

Price

: about 2300 rubles excluding discounts for a 75 ml tube.

Testing period

: 2 years, 1-2 times a week, alternately with other masks of a similar type.

Grade

: 8 out of 10 (lacks greater versatility, stronger cleansing properties, although this is probably not too objective in this case).

Continuing the topic of masks, I can’t help but mention another product that appeared in my collection later, but has already earned a very good reputation.

Dior Capture Totale Dream Skin 1 Minute Mask

I like everything about this mask - the design, the appearance of the mask itself, the transformation from a gel texture to a creamy one during application, the speed of action, good results.

I already left a review of this luxury product here, in the post “For those in a hurry: skin renewal with the Dior Capture Totale Dream Skin 1 Minute Mask.” I will not repeat the detailed description in this review.

I am happy to use this beauty for quick, gentle skin renewal, obtained as a result of exposure to the same glycolic acid in combination with a salicylic acid in the company of plant extracts. In addition to the benefits for appearance, I get purely aesthetic pleasure from using it.

The biggest disadvantage is the high price.

Price

: about 4,500 rubles excluding discounts for a 75 ml tube.

Testing period

: 1 year, 1-2-3 times a week, alternately with other masks of a similar type.

Grade

: 10 of 10

As I understand, this year an improved, updated version of the Dior mask was released, which I have not yet tried, but I tried another interesting luxury new product for 2020 - this time from Givenchy. It's called Givenchy L'Intemporel Beautifying Mask and contains an interesting set of ingredients for an instant transformation of facial skin, including not only glycolic acid, but also nitric acid, which my skin also loves. It also contains an anti-aging complex. I tried this mask in the Givenchy Beauty Cabin and was very pleased with the first acquaintance. However, due to the high cost (about 6,000 rubles), I will wait for discount promotions to purchase this luxurious delicacy and get to know it more closely. Definitely on the wish list.

In the meantime, I’ll go over some of the skincare products that are also related to light acid skincare. I currently have two night creams to gently renew my skin. The first is from the already familiar and beloved brand Caudalie, and the second is from this year’s opening brand – Janssen Cosmetics.

Night cream “New skin” Caudalie Vinoperfect Overnight Renewal Cream

This cream is designed to eliminate pigmentation and add radiance to the skin, as well as detoxify and smooth the skin. And if I need more prevention with pigmentation, then everything else is very important.

The composition contains the same glycolic acid, papain and the famous viniferin 500. There is also panthenol, squalane, Shea butter, vitamin E and cassia angustifolia polysaccharides. Traditionally pleasant cocktail with natural ingredients.

I like everything about this cream - pleasant rich consistency, interesting grape aroma, quick absorption and comfortable feeling after application. But the most pleasant thing is to touch your skin in the morning. It's so fresh, bouncy and smooth that after trying the miniatures I bought the full size version in a 40 ml tube.

However, while I was getting acquainted with the Vinoperfect series, the brand released an update, and now on the agenda is the study of a new night cream - Caudalie Dark Spot Correcting Glycolic Night Cream, a miniature of which will appear in my hands in the near future.

Price

: about 3800 rubles excluding discounts for a 50 ml jar (this is a new version!).

Testing period

: 6 months, courses of 1-2 months.

Grade

: 10 of 10

I received the next cream in one of the beauty boxes and was very impressed with the brand.

Cream with fruit acids Janssen Cosmetics AHA Face Cream

According to the manufacturer, AHA Face Cream contains 10% concentrations of glycolic, malic, tartaric and citric fruit acids, which dissolve dead skin cells and activate natural skin renewal processes. The cream helps solve problems such as deep cleansing and narrowing pores, reducing inflammation, moisturizing and smoothing the skin, and lightening pigmentation. It is also perfect as an anti-aging treatment for mature skin prone to inflammation. Part of the line for oily skin.

The cream has a pleasant refreshing apple-floral aroma, quite bright, but quickly disappearing.

The light melting texture is absorbed almost instantly, immediately after spreading, leaving no stickiness, grease or suffocating film. With injuries and wounds on the skin, a slight tingling sensation is possible, but usually I do not experience any unpleasant or unusual sensations.

The cream-gel is recommended to be used preferably at night, on previously cleansed skin.

The product does not make the skin oily at all. It is perfect for those who do not like to use nourishing products at night for fear of staining the pillow.

In the example on the hand, you can clearly see that after absorption the skin gained radiance and smoothness. This strip and its border are clearly visible. At the same time, I repeat, there is no stickiness or greasiness!

In the morning, the skin looks fresh, smooth, without excess sebum, and by tactile sensations it feels elastic and smooth. Minor inflammations are treated and dried. There is no feeling of tightness or dryness.

With regular use, the skin becomes smooth, clean, the pores are better cleaned, visually they look smaller and neater, the gray and unhealthy complexion changes to a more even, fresh and glowing one. The sebum-regulating effect and keratolytic effect are also noticeable. Inflammations go away faster and the skin recovers more actively. Thanks to hydration, increased turgor, acceleration of metabolic processes and activation of collagen production, fine wrinkles are smoothed out and the skin looks younger and healthier.

Price

: about 2500-3000 rubles for a 50 ml bottle (mini versions of 10 ml, like mine, are sold for about 500 rubles).

Testing period

: 1 month, at night.

Grade

: 10 of 10

In conclusion, I would like to note a few general points.

Firstly, I recommend that even very mild products with acids be tested first on small areas of the skin in order to avoid unpleasant individual reactions and possible burns.

Secondly, it is undesirable to use any products with active acids during periods of exposure to the open sun, under direct rays, in order to avoid the appearance of age spots. Usually I use such products from October to March (and if April in St. Petersburg is as stormy and cold as this year, then I can hold out until May). In any case, it is recommended to use a high protection sunscreen when using these products.

An exception may be lines that are approved for use throughout the year, since the concentration of acids in them is low. Such examples include the Vinoperfect series from the Caudalie brand and powder for washing, followed by backup with day creams with SPF, and I can assume that in the summer almost everyone now uses exactly these.

I hope my review wasn't too tedious and long-winded. If you need any more detailed reviews of these products, write in the comments.

And I plan to continue experimenting with acid-themed products, but for now the scheme is as follows:

Enzyme powder for washing - Essence \ Acid tonic - Night cream with acids (it is possible to add serum with soft acids). As a supplement, masks with AHA acids.

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Indications and contraindications

All cosmetic procedures, both salon and home, have their own indications for use. You cannot, without any apparent reason, go and do a deep cleansing of the pores with clean and well-groomed skin or use lifting masks at the age of 20, when there should be no talk of any facelift. Home peeling is no exception to this general rule. It will be most effective if you follow the indications for it:

  • Oily skin with enlarged pores , which need careful, regular cleaning, since they most often collect a lot of very harmful substances, dead cells, sebaceous deposits and other contaminants that interfere with the proper respiration of cells;
  • Withered, flabby, dull skin : women who have stopped expecting dramatic changes (real miracles) from their reflection in the mirror can finally console themselves that peeling is the very procedure that can put their skin in order.

Since peeling masks are embedded into the very structure of the skin cells and have a deep and sometimes aggressive effect, be sure to keep in mind that home peeling has a number of contraindications:

  • Problematic skin : with severe inflammation, when there are too many pimples and blackheads, it is better not to do peeling, because the source of inflammation will be affected and disturbed - the formations may intensify; however, with a limited number of rashes, you can occasionally seek help from home peeling, as it eliminates those impurities that cause the appearance of inflammatory lesions on the face;
  • Skin diseases (rosacea, rosacea, acne, papillomas, melanoma, impetigo, vitiligo , keratosis, seborrheic dermatitis, chloasma, etc.);
  • Skin damage : open wounds on the face, recent injuries that have not yet healed, fresh marks from stitches;
  • Thin, delicate, sensitive skin : for such beauties, peeling cleansing is available, but limited in the number of procedures - it is not prohibited to do it once (in special cases, twice) once every 10 days, but choose exclusively gommage, so as not to injure the skin.

Attention: if you are not sure that you can do homemade facial peeling, it is better to avoid the procedure in favor of soft masks and daily washes.

If the degree of contamination of the pores is very high, it’s time to go to a salon, where they can offer various types of salon peelings, even for sensitive and problematic skin. For those who have no contraindications, there are many recipes for homemade peeling products that are ready to carefully and effectively cleanse pores and refresh the complexion.

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