Yves Saint Laurent: New look dresses


Mondrian dress by Yves Saint Laurent

In 1965, Yves Saint Laurent released the “Mondrian” collection (autumn-winter 1965-1966) based on the paintings of Piet Mondrian, a Dutch artist who was one of the founders of abstract painting.

Yves Saint LaurentPiet Mondrian

Dresses from the Mondrian collection were simple A-line dresses made of wool and jersey without collar or sleeves, with a pattern of large colored rectangles and black lines.

Mondrian dress from Yves Saint Laurent, 1965.

The dresses became a sensation because of their bright, unusual print and because of the mini length that had just begun to come into fashion. The idea of ​​transferring abstract painting onto fabric to create a print was also revolutionary.


Painting by Piet MondrianDress sketch from the Mondrian collection

Mondrian dresses became a symbol of the 1960s, embodying simplicity and sophistication.

Yves Saint Laurent glorified the name of Piet Mondrian, who was not particularly successful during his lifetime, making him a true legend. Mondrian's ideas are still reflected in the collections of famous designers, who are again and again attracted by the laconicism and brightness of his works.

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Marilyn Monroe's white dress

Marilyn Monroe's white dress
Filming of The Seven Year Itch / 1955 / 20th Century Fox

You may never have heard of the 1955 film The Seven Year Itch, but you probably remember the scene with Marilyn Monroe's white flowing dress.

The comedy “The Seven Year Itch” was based on the Broadway play by George Axelrod. In the story, a married book publisher falls in love with an advertising model played by Marilyn Monroe. In the famous scene, she appears in an ivory cocktail dress with a pleated circle skirt and a tied bodice. Together with the main character, they leave the cinema on the corner of 52nd Street and Lexington Avenue after watching the film “Creature from the Black Lagoon”. While talking, Marilyn's character hears a subway train approaching. She stands on the subway grate, and the wind lifts her dress up, exposing her legs.

Initially, they actually wanted to film the scene on the corner of 52nd Street and Lexington Avenue in New York. We chose night for filming so as not to attract unnecessary attention. But movie cameras and a famous actress still attracted crowds of onlookers. They whistled noisily every time Marilyn's dress lifted, revealing her legs and underwear. As a result, crowd noise spoiled the material, and the episode had to be re-shot at the 20th Century Fox studio.

The actress's husband, Joe DiMaggio, was present during the filming. And although this scene brought Marilyn an incredible increase in popularity, it also caused her to divorce her husband due to its frankness.


"Marilyn Forever" statue in Chicago / July 16, 2011

Monroe's white dress was sold at auction in 2011 for $4.6 million. The scene from The Seven Year Itch was repeated in many films: The Boys Like It, The Woman in Red, Shrek 2. A Barbie doll was created in the image of Marilyn Monroe from the film, and in July 2011, an eight-meter statue called “Marilyn Forever” was installed in Chicago, which repeats the scene with the white dress. She was later moved to Palm Springs.

the birth of the style of the twentieth century – Fair of Masters

Avant-garde in the art of the early twentieth century - the desire for renewal, the search for new means of expression and new forms brought together many names of artists from different countries and movements. A separate miracle is the Russian avant-garde.

But today we are talking about Pieter Cornelis (Piet) Mondrian - an amazing artist, an exhibition of whose works was held at the Tretyakov Gallery on Krymsky Val in 2013. Here is one of his compositions, it is probably familiar to many.

Piet Mondrian (1872-1944, the Netherlands) in the Popular Art Encyclopedia is called “the creator of one of the first varieties of abstract art” and the founder of the “Style” group.

He created his compositions “from strictly balanced rectangular planes, separated by contour perpendicular lines and locally colored in the primary colors of the spectrum with the addition of white and black,” striving for “universal harmony.”

Here we say goodbye to the encyclopedia and turn to the work of Mondrian. After all, I started from the end, and Piet Mondrian, before founding the Style group, went through a difficult path of creative search. Along this path, he, like many artists, was fascinated by the Impressionists.

Several wonderful landscapes of Holland.

In this bright landscape one can already “read” the red and blue of future abstract paintings.

And this interweaving of lines may have echoed in the clear geometry of his later works.

But rectangles and intersecting lines are the Mondrian style that conquered the world!

These compositions are incredibly positive, they charge you with joy and optimism.

Perhaps this positivity inspired another famous artist, the unique stylist Yves Saint Laurent, to create a magnificent collection of dresses in 1965/66. And here is such an amazing result: 20 years after his death, the artist Piet Mondrian, without knowing it, established himself in the world of high fashion.

Yves Saint Laurent created several Mondrian wool minidresses with a simple cut, without sleeves, collars, or drapes. The main thing in this collection was a print based on the compositions of Piet Mondrian. Let's admire it?

Of course, the collection was a success!

Saint Laurent dresses were tried on (and worn) by Grace Kelly, Catherine Deneuve

Wearing a Saint Laurent dress, Deneuve was photographed against the backdrop of a still from the wonderful, cult film “Beauty of the Day,” directed by Buñuel. If you haven't seen it, dear ladies, be sure to check it out! I guarantee you won't regret it!

- Sorry, I got distracted!

But the story of Mondrian dresses did not end there. The prints became a hit and a brand. And not only in summer clothes, not only in knitwear. New interpretations and new materials allow you to create new models, bright, different, festive!

Clothes “based on”... Street and home, famous companies and just handicrafts, home sewing - everything absorbed the artist’s finds and gave a wonderful creative impulse, brightened up the street, added bright colors.

How will you like it, dear dressmakers? Have ideas for new creative endeavors?

But I wanted to please and inspire not only dressmakers. After all, this is only one creative direction, and “behind the scenes” there are incomparable bags, shoes, furniture, etc. and so on.

I will continue, with your permission, in the next publication >>

With constant respect, Zhanna (gvasi).

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